The 2014 Bodegas Manzanos Voché Selección is a singular expression of Rioja: a 95-point single-vineyard bottle from a rarely featured grape. It’s also one of the most impressive values in Rioja, bearing a polish, pedigree, and bottle-age that we seldom see at a fill-the-cellar price.
Dark ruby center with crimson highlights staining the glass. The aromatics are warm and ripe, with plenty of red and black fruits, including spicy Châteauneuf-du-Pape-like plum along with balsamic-soaked strawberry tones similar to Nerello Mascalese. There are dusty minerals throughout, with a gorgeous touch of iodine reminiscent of Brunello. Fleshy and spiced at the center, this Graciano shows a good deal of nuance, with notes of dried herbs, tanned leather, and olive. Drinking great right now, and it will continue to unfold for the better part of this decade. Drink now–2029.